Start with the simple things
Before assuming a part has failed, rule out the quick causes. Check that the dryer is plugged in firmly and look at your breaker panel. Electric dryers use a double-pole breaker that controls two 120-volt legs. If one half trips, the drum and controls may still work because they use 120 volts, but the heating element needs both legs for 240 volts. Flip the breaker fully off and then on again, and test the dryer.
Next, look at the load. A very large load, or one with heavy towels and bedding, can take far longer to dry and may seem like a heat problem. Try a small load on a high-heat setting for ten minutes. If the air inside the drum feels warm, the heating system is probably working and the problem is airflow.
Airflow problems that look like heating problems
A clogged vent is the number one reason dryers seem to lose heat. When hot, moist air cannot leave, the dryer overheats, a safety thermostat trips, and the heat cuts off. Clothes stay damp and hot. Check the lint screen first, then pull the dryer away from the wall and look at the transition hose. A crushed or kinked hose is easy to fix. Finally, check the exterior vent flap while the dryer runs; if it barely moves, the duct is blocked.
Long runs, many bends, and ducts that travel through cold spaces make the problem worse. The vent should be as short and straight as possible, and use rigid or semi-rigid metal ducting rather than thin foil. Have the duct cleaned if you cannot see through it.
Electric dryer: parts that fail
- Heating element. A coil of resistance wire that can break or burn out. A technician tests it with a meter for continuity.
- Thermal fuse. A one-time safety device that blows to prevent overheating. It is usually a sign of a vent problem, so replacing the fuse without clearing the vent invites a repeat.
- High-limit and cycling thermostats. They regulate temperature and can fail open.
- Timer, control board or moisture sensor. Less common, but they can prevent the heater from being switched on.
Gas dryer: parts that fail
Gas dryers add an ignition system. The igniter glows to open the gas valve; a weak igniter may glow but not draw enough current. The valve coils can also fail, and the flame sensor can cut off the burner. If you smell gas at any time, leave the home, avoid switches and flames, and call Puget Sound Energy or 911 from outside. Do not attempt gas repairs yourself.
What repairs typically cost
As general estimates, a heating element repair often runs $150 to $350, a thermal fuse or thermostat $100 to $250, and gas igniter or valve coil work $150 to $350, including diagnosis, parts, and labor. Diagnostic fees alone often run $75 to $150. Vent cleaning is a separate service at roughly $100 to $250. These figures are not quotes. Read our appliance repair cost guide for ranges across all appliances.
When to stop and call a professional
Call a provider if the breaker is fine and the vent is clear but there is still no heat, if you smell burning or gas, or if the dryer trips the breaker repeatedly. Any burning smell means stop and unplug the dryer. Include your brand, model, whether it is gas or electric, and what you have already checked when you request dryer repair.
Quick answers
Why does my dryer run but not heat?
Common causes are a tripped half of the breaker, a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a blocked vent that tripped a safety thermostat. Gas dryers can have igniter or valve coil failures.
Can I replace a thermal fuse myself?
Some people do, but the fuse blows for a reason, usually a clogged vent. If you are not comfortable with appliance wiring, hire a professional.
Is it worth repairing a dryer that will not heat?
Often yes. Most heating repairs cost far less than a new dryer unless the unit is very old.